Avoid the delay
Your Order May Be Delayed As Our Shipping Partners Are Experiencing Unexpected Issues. Read More
We have detected you're not on the correct site for the car you have selected! Click the green button below to go to the correct site.
Select your car: 
BMW Mini Cooper
Select
   Forum Width:     Forum Type: 

Found 44 Messages

Previous Set of Pages 1 | 2 | 3

 Posted: May 4, 2016 08:07AM
Total posts: 1723
Last post: Oct 20, 2020
Member since:Jun 18, 1999
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
US
I should have added to look at the mounts to see if you have any separation in the sandwich.

 Posted: May 4, 2016 05:13AM
Total posts: 8923
Last post: Oct 24, 2021
Member since:Aug 14, 2002
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
CA
One more location to check:

The "dogbone" engine steady braces the engine back to the firewall above the clutch housing. The bolts, rubber bushings and associated brackets all need to be in place and in good condition. The top part of the bracket at the firewall is formed by the heavy steel plate that the heater hoses pass through (left-hand drive car), or support the master cylinders (right hand drive car). The bottom part of the bracket is a lighter-gauge steel clip welded to the cross-member, and also supports the clutch slave hose connection. The welds can fail, leaving just the upper plate bracing the engine, resulting in metal fatigue and weakening of the plate.  It will seem solid enough if you try to rock the engine by hand, but under engine load it will move about. Not common, but others have seen the problem.

On my Mini, it eventually tore the hole out of the plate. I discovered that somewhere in time somebody had brazed the lower clip back on, but it too had failed. Because my engine was not braced, it caused extra torsion on the subframe that caused a metal fatigue crack in the passenger-side floor pan, producing a body creak on acceleration and deceleration. In the attached picture, you can see the dogbone steady connected to a checker-plate plate with the heater hoses running through it. Below the lower hose you can see the original lower clip (turned 90 degrees, with the weld lumps showing) with the clutch hose connection. Not visible is the loweer clip I made out of 1/8" thick angle iron. It doesn't move.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: May 4, 2016 03:33AM
Total posts: 9
Last post: May 4, 2016
Member since:Mar 20, 2011
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
US
Hey guys - I wanted to let you all know that I took 6464's advice and put a hydraulic floor jack under the trans. I jacked it up several pumps watching the engine carefully. It appears that engine is solidly in place as everything lifted evenly. Will have it looked at again by another set of eyes, for verification, just wanted to keep you all up to date.

Quick and Quirky over Fast and Serious!!Cool

 Posted: May 3, 2016 02:37PM
Total posts: 1404
Last post: Jun 21, 2018
Member since:Oct 8, 2013
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Quote:
Originally Posted by thewerewolf
jch..  do you still have the auto tranny.?? I have five MANUELs one.we could make swap If you need tranny call me bill cox 1.704.487.6797
Manuels?? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s6EaoPMANQM


Mini's are like buses they come along in a bunch

 Posted: May 3, 2016 12:03PM
Total posts: 3919
Last post: Oct 29, 2019
Member since:Oct 4, 2013
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
thanks..  I have MOKE to covert to auto.. I just want SPARE one. just in the case this one I have is BAD..  later bc

 Posted: May 3, 2016 10:48AM
Total posts: 9
Last post: May 4, 2016
Member since:Mar 20, 2011
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
US
Will do, with pictures. Give me a day or so.

Bill- no auto Tranny in my possession. That would have been gone one maybe two owners ago, if it started as a auto. Just heard from my local mini friend, he is sure that the current sub-frame is definitely a manual sub-frame on the car as it sits.

Quick and Quirky over Fast and Serious!!Cool

 Posted: May 3, 2016 09:58AM
Total posts: 3919
Last post: Oct 29, 2019
Member since:Oct 4, 2013
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
jch..  do you still have the auto tranny.?? I have five MANUELs one.we could make swap If you need tranny call me bill cox 1.704.487.6797

 Posted: May 3, 2016 09:53AM
Total posts: 8372
Last post: Oct 23, 2021
Member since:Feb 7, 2006
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
As James stated above look for spacers under the engine mounts or possibly two sets of holes for the engine mounts. As the auto subby is wider it needs spacers to mount the engine mounts onto to compensate for the difference in width. Also depending on what sub frame and engine combo was there previously as mur stated the upper engine steady could be incorrect. Does your engine slope towards the front of the car or the rear ? If you are not sure what to look for take some pictures and post them.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: May 3, 2016 09:23AM
Total posts: 9
Last post: May 4, 2016
Member since:Mar 20, 2011
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
US
Ah yes, I think I made a mistake on my original post, that I never went back to correct, address, or clarify to see if anyone could tell me for sure what to look for on a swap from auto to manual.

Since then, I've learned that my mini may have actually never been an auto, but to be fair I was basing that off (two) layperson's opinions based on the two speedo clock myself and the PO. When I started having issues, and started looking into it further I did find that the car had a complete full disassembled paint job, right after it was brought over from England. That would have been the time the trans was swapped, but I can't tell for sure.

If you give me some pointers on what to look for, I'll gladly check and take pictures. I want everyone who loves mini's to learn whatever they can from my struggles (lessons learned). :)

Quick and Quirky over Fast and Serious!!Cool

 Posted: May 3, 2016 08:08AM
Total posts: 1723
Last post: Oct 20, 2020
Member since:Jun 18, 1999
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
US
I have a  question, what did the PO do with the auto subframe? is still there and did he put in a spacer and/or drill new holes? somethings going on cause your engine is not sitting square to cause this popping out. we need more info.

 Posted: May 3, 2016 08:00AM
Total posts: 1723
Last post: Oct 20, 2020
Member since:Jun 18, 1999
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
US
put a hydraulic jack under the trans and jack up  , have the bonnet open,  while jacking up the eng/trans, look to see if one side is rising more than the other. I believe you will find the one on the rad side to be bad.

 Posted: May 3, 2016 07:53AM
Total posts: 9
Last post: May 4, 2016
Member since:Mar 20, 2011
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
US
Motor mounts were checked 3 different people, including someone that has known minis for 20+ years, and all three said they were good, but I'll look into again. At this point- I won't dismiss anything.

Quick and Quirky over Fast and Serious!!Cool

 Posted: May 3, 2016 07:43AM
Total posts: 1723
Last post: Oct 20, 2020
Member since:Jun 18, 1999
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
US
 motor mounts are bad

 Posted: May 3, 2016 07:34AM
Total posts: 9
Last post: May 4, 2016
Member since:Mar 20, 2011
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
US
You may have saved me the expense and the headache of a new GEARBOX!!!

I followed your link, and think it may have fixed the problem.

My comments are posted on the other thread. THANK YOU - THANK YOU - THANK YOU!!!

//www.minimania.com/msgThread/118907/1/1/Rod_change_anti_oil_leak_kit__MSSK050__problem

Quick and Quirky over Fast and Serious!!Cool

 Posted: Jan 25, 2016 07:39PM
Total posts: 3113
Last post: Mar 5, 2021
Member since:Feb 9, 2002
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 1
WorkBench Posts: 0
US

And if they installed the anti oil leak kit, this could be your problem:

//www.minimania.com/msgThread/118907/1/1/Rod_change_anti_oil_leak_kit__MSSK050__problem

 

 

"I drive a Mini. What are you compensating for?"

 

 Posted: Jan 25, 2016 10:39AM
Total posts: 1636
Last post: Sep 30, 2021
Member since:Apr 30, 2009
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
US

ALSO! make sure the joint - with roll pins- that connects the shift rod to the tranny shft rod are tight and secure.

 

 Too Loose - might not be pushing into gear enough and popping out!

 Posted: Jan 25, 2016 08:40AM
Total posts: 5
Last post: Jan 25, 2016
Member since:Jan 15, 2016
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0

I found a lot of useful information!

 Posted: Aug 25, 2014 02:07PM
mur
Total posts: 5840
Last post: Nov 1, 2019
Member since:Nov 12, 1999
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0

Automatic minis have longer upper steady arms. Maybe you just need the engine tilted back slightly by a stock upper arm to solve the shift linkage binding.

 Posted: Aug 25, 2014 01:50PM
Total posts: 8372
Last post: Oct 23, 2021
Member since:Feb 7, 2006
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Quote:
Originally Posted by luvtorun

Hello everyone.  

 

I own a 1988 mini that I absolutely love and bought from a private party approximately 3yrs ago.  Up until now, I have had very little problems other than standard leaks and routine maint.  In fact, I have only recently started experiencing some gearbox is issues where first 2nd and 4th were popping out of gear.  

 

Background: 

I bought the car from an individual that converted it from automatic to 4-speed.  I've only put about 1,000 miles on it as I've mainly been been using it as a weekend run about, and rarely above 50mph.  

 

Recently I decided to take my bonus check and treat her to a visit to the shop to fix some leaks and other issues I had been concerned about.  Replaced Water pump, Radiator and Oil seepage from the shifter etc.  

 

During the work the technician (highly reputable European specialist, but not a classic Mini expert) noticed that the engine mount bolts were really loose and that the engine was hitting the fire wall during the drive - OK, this is my first and only mini so I wouldn't have known the difference.  I asked him to make it right and he did.

 

I picked up the car and was Happy as pie with the feel and the repairs made.  Unfortunately, it appears that my investment opened up pandora's box.  

 

I didn't make it more than 5 miles down the road and had to return the car for another look.  The car's gears were gritty and the car was popping out of 2nd and 4th gear.  More so in 4th during deceleration when I let off the gas.

 

I returned the car and the technician looked it over again.  He loosened the engine bolts just a bit thinking the new regidity may be the cause and also replaced what appeared to be a worn shifter bushing.  The car doesn't pop out of 2nd now and the shift into all gears is smooth, but It still pops out of 4th during deceleration / letting off the gas. 

 

Wanted to send a shout out to see if you guys thought tightening the engine mounts may have brought to light a problem the previous owner had, but has masked it by loosing bolts as opposed to trouble shooting the problem.   I know very little about mini's and need some help with my baby.  

 

I can't think of anything else that would have changed that would have literally brought this problem on overnight.    

Does it pop out of reverse too ? I worked on one we installed a used rod change in it and it jumped out of gear also, we found out the rod change was from a Metro and the rods were 1/2" longer causing the problem on 2nd, 4th and reverse.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Aug 25, 2014 01:21PM
Total posts: 13918
Last post: Oct 12, 2021
Member since:Jan 22, 2003
Cars in Garage: 4
Photos: 381
WorkBench Posts: 1
CA

....also, make sure the top steady bar bushes are good and the engine isn't rocking back and forth ( which it would do on accel/decel )

You may need to install a lower stabliser bar also

 

"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May

"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge

 

 

 

Found 44 Messages

Previous Set of Pages 1 | 2 | 3