Phipps1 is a scammer.

It is great to see that some people still put in an effort into managing their websites.

walgreenslistens

No problem, I was as surprised as you I think. Take care.

WOW, may be one of the only ones in the world! Happy to be wrong.

Also happy to say I'm a kept man... haven't taken a paycheck in many years.
;)

PAY UP. Checked my speedometer with gps and phone app and speedometer is exact. I'll send you my bank info so you can wire me the money. LOL. Take care.

Spank that is really interesting about engine size and speedometer reading. I will use a gps next time I drive it to see actual speedometer reading. Thanks for the info.

Those speedo marks are suggestions for the stock motor and gearing and wheels/tires that was standard equipment on the vehicle that speedo came in.

Since you have a 1275 engine in your moke, it is not the stock engine. I'd also bet a year's salary that your speedometer is not accurate.

What you are essentially asking is for us to tell you the best way to make love to your partner...  The answer to that is to give us some time with your partner and we'll come back with an answer that works for us.

you would be in first before the I mark, in second between I and II, and in third between II and III, above that in fourth.  Certainly, nobody drives looking at those marks, those are just rough suggestions for deaf people and used car salesmen. 

Listen to your engine, feel the acceleration.  Engines have a range of rpms where they make the most hp, a graph would show something that looks like a hill.  Same for torque, but often the torque graph would show its peak is earlier (lower revs) than the hp graph.  A car is easy to drive if its torque graph has a wide, flat peak.   A long time ago,  Road and Track would plot the car's best acceleration performance, showing the speeds vs time as the car was shifted through the gears.  Maybe they tested Mokes, it would be interesting to find that graph.   

If you wanted to accelerate as fast as possible, you would mash the gas pedal down, rev the engine until you crested that hp peak, then shift into the next higher gear.  When you do that, the higher gearing causes the revs to drop back to the hill-climbing side of the hp graph, but if everything was perfect the lower revs would be just at the engine's torque peak.  If you drive more casually, not mashing the gas pedal down, then you climb those hp/torque hills more slowly but you can still hear the engine and sure you could glance at the speedo for confirmation.  It gets easier, after a while its fun to drive.

I just looked ay my speedometer and it has the marks on it I II III. I must be blind. When you look at the marks, they seem to be in the high range like around 35 mph dor first, 55 mph for second, and close to 80 mph for third. Is this the maximum speed you would want to shift into these gears since they seem really high?  What I have read first gear is just to get moving, then you shift into second. Would I need to use 4th gear, if I never go over 45 mph. I will never drive it on the freeway, to dangerous in California. LOL

 I dont know Mokes, but older Minis with Smiths speedometers had the first, second, third speed range marks right on the speedo face.

Like riding a bicycle, once you get the hang of it, it becomes second nature. Some day you may even be able to shift up and down through all four gears without touching the clutch. (Reverse is still another matter!) Came in handy when a (non-Mini) clutch cable broke on me.

Thanks, a lot to learn and practice.

As you say, you are new to manual shifting.
As MIniCord said, "There is not a right speed for each gear, rather a acceptable speed range for each gear and what the driving conditions are."
Another factor is the size and type of engine you are driving. A 1275 can mean many things. It could be a mild 1970's transplant from an Austin America. It could be a highly tuned Cooper S engine. It could be a later A+ (you'll learn about that later) transplant from a Metro (standard or high compression).

For the moment, we can assume your 1275 is a relatively unmodified standard compression engine. It has more torque and horsepower than the original 850 or 998cc engine the Moke was built with. When accelerating, you make use of torque to turn the wheels faster and faster. When you are driving flat out, horsepower keeps you at speed. (Generalized over-simplification!) Both torque and horsepower maximize before maximum rpm, and then began to fall off.

When you start off in first gear, you apply some throttle as you release the clutch to keep it from stalling. This it to increase the available torque to get things rolling. (If your engine is strong, and your car light - it is a Moke - you probably can get it rolling without any throttle, if you are careful.) Once a gear is engaged and you are accelerating, you only need to rev the engine to get the road speed up to the point that when you shift to the next higher gear where the engine rpms are above idle and some of that power band is available. While you are shifting, your foot should be very light on the throttle to allow the engine revs to drop to near idle, (maybe around 1000 rpm) ready to apply more throttle if the engine sounds like it might falter. Once the gear is engaged and the clutch released, you can use as much throttle as you want to get to the next gear change point. You do not need to max out RPMs  at 5000. That can be unnecessarily hard on a stock engine. I'd suggest 4000 rpm as an upper limit until you get to know and get the feel of your engine's capabilities. One you get that feel and are comfortable shifting gears up and down, you can probe the safe limits of your engine.

Down shifting: is generally the opposite of up-shifting. You do NOT want to engage a lower gear at a speed where. when you release the clutch the engine is pushed by the transmission into an over-rev condition and possible engine damage. Generally speaking, using the wheel brakes to slow a car is better than engine breaking because brake shoes/pads are easier and cheaper to replace than clutches (Kieth Calver). If you are driving along and traffic slows or you go up a hill, the engine rpms may fall close to idle speed and you risk stalling. That is the time to down-shift to give the engine a chance to use its power.

Use something like 5500 rpm as a guide and the table will tell you what speed you should max out in each gear.

Or, go through the gears, rev it till it stops accelerating ( or starts to sound like its reaching your $$$ tolerance) notch it back a few mph for normal ops and go for it...

cheers, Ian

If the engine screams, and its running out of air shift up.

If the engine bogs or lacks power, shift down.

 

There is not a right speed for each gear, rather a acceptable speed range for each gear and what the driving conditions are.

 

Get a nice tachometer and you will know for sure!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2LTyiq7mcUw

Without knowing the gearing in your Moke, we can't give you an answer. Do you have any Mini folks near you who could drive with you and tell you the right time to change?

I have a 1972 Leyland Mini Moke with a 1275cc engine.

What is the proper speed for each gear. First gear through 4th gear in mph. 
I am new to manual transmission and want to make sure I am in the right gear for the speed I want to go.
Thanks.