Well, I went ahead and ordered the VC3500 CLASSIC 7 INCH LED HEADLIGHT KIT - Classic Lens Upgrade and 4x - P36S LED LUCAS LLB323 SPOTLIGHT / FOG LIGHT BULBS 12V 24V 30V SFT576 SFT700

This will put 6000K-6500K pure white light in my headlights and SRL & SFT 700 Series Lucas driving and fog lamps.

About $500 CDN in lighting, but the first up-grades in 20 years, so worth it, I suppose.....we will see.

Along with proper aiming as was mentioned, a clean windshield in good condition makes a big difference as well. Many 30 plus year old cars have badly frosted/stone chipped glass when compared to new. Just because its not cracked doesn't mean it's not time for a new one.

One aspect that seems to have been overlooked that incandscent and halogen bulbs gradually get dimmer with age. Our 2010 Jeep (bought used about a year ago ) had a nice, nostalgic, warm light from the daytime driving/low beams. Replaced the halogens with stock-rated new halogens and now we can see much better at night.

Another aspect is that as we get older, our eyes get dimmer. The headlights may be fine.

My Wipacs are glass lens. I installed them over a year ago, my memory is I had no problems with them fitting the bowl. The Morimoto LED has active fans that keep them cool. I use my headlamps every time I drive and have never noticed any additional heat from the lens compared to H4 Halogens if anything they run cooler. My set up doesn't flicker so no need for the anti-flicker module. The best resource I've seen is Headlight Revolution they test all of them. I disagree with the the anti-LED sentiment, if properly designed and used they use less power and produce more light, the bad rap comes from cheap Asian LEDs that claim huge increases in output when in actuality they aren't as bright as a cheap 60/55W H4.
In the photo the lights are on low beam and I also run combined LED running/turn signal bulbs.

Hi Kevin, following on from the other post re spots...

Again (IMHO ) I can't see why you would want to bother with LEDs ... With clean reflectors and glass and modern halogen bulbs you will get as much light as you could possibly want.  Modern glass (Hella and Cibie make effective units that fit straight into a Mini) is useful as a good spread of light is more important than light a kilometre up the road... You're much more likely to run (pun intended into problems with critters hiding in the bushes than with not being able to see which way the road goes far enough ahead.

As well as updated bulbs, your headlights will benefit from updated wiring and relays.

The only issue that needs caution is that light = heat.  Once you start getting above 100 watt bulbs you probably want metal/glass headlights/buckets rather than the cheaper plastic/poly...

Cheers, Ian

George,
Just wondering, have you hand tested the lens on the WIPACs to see how hot they get with the LEDs? Curious how the polycarbonate plastic holds up to the heat. The halogens get pretty warm, so maybe it's not much of a difference. I'm also curious how close they are inside to the back of the headlight buckets, and whether you needed the anti-flicker modules? 

I have the WIPAC Quadoptic housings. I'm not sure what H4 bulbs they originally came with, but I think I'm currently running some Phillips Hyperwhite bulbs or something. I always take the time to aim them properly when I replace the bulbs. I've looked into doing either full LED headlights or upgrading to the LED bulbs like the Morimoto ones that bikewiz mentions, but to be honest, I can't imagine being in an on-road situation where I would need more light than the ones I have put out. The most important things are the design of the lens and reflector and the output pattern of the bulb. A cheap housing/lens or cheap LED won't have the engineering in it to give you the best light output. Just having BRIGHT light is worthless if you can't aim it in the right direction. If your halogens aren't giving you great light output they're likely either not great to begin with or they're not aimed right. And if you happen to have headlights that were made for driving on the left side of the road, you're not going to be able to aim them at all, so make sure that whatever you buy is made for North American roads. If you just pick up a pair of Sylvania Silverstar (or whatever) headlights at Auto Zone you won't have to worry about that.

613-762-8997

Thanks

I have Wipac H4 lens with Morimoto 2stroke 2.0 leds. They work great compared to halogens and look the part of an old car. They have a really good pattern, are bright white instead of yellowish, and use less power.

There are some really good videos on Youtube from a company called Headlight Revolution go down that worm hole for all things lighting. They also have a good guide for aiming the lights which makes a big difference. I believe they recommend the GTR lighting Ultra2 however I think they're $240 or so for a pair.....

I got my Morimoto's from The Retrofit Source not cheap but I feel they were well worth it. https://www.theretrofitsource.com/h4-led-headlight-bulbs-morimoto-2stroke-LED-2STROKE-H4?quantity=1

KEVIN your other post is not allowing more posts. Put your phone number down and I will call you. This will stop my wife from complaining about my international callling plan

Hello Again,

What are the best and brightest replacement headlights you can buy for a Classic Mini.

I have halogen somethings, but am not too impressed.

Still looking to kept the classic look to the lights.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,

Kevin