weird radiator question
Created by: Morninglightmountain
Total posts: 8382
Last post: Jan 13, 2022 Member since:Feb 7, 2006
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
|
Glad you got it sorted.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
Total posts: 219
Last post: Apr 7, 2022 Member since:Aug 16, 2015
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
those guys work miracles at the body shop.
wouldn't know it happened if i didn't know it happened.
car ran straight up normal temp on the ride home in the 100+ Texas heat with the new radiator.
thanks again for all the help folks!
wouldn't know it happened if i didn't know it happened.
car ran straight up normal temp on the ride home in the 100+ Texas heat with the new radiator.
thanks again for all the help folks!
Total posts: 219
Last post: Apr 7, 2022 Member since:Aug 16, 2015
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
new radiator is in with one piece cowl. i had to shim it up just a touch as to not hit the fan blade. brake pipe replaced and new rubber lines. Off to the body shop. They said it didn't look bad. just dented the rear panel and boot lid a bit.
thanks for all the info fellas!
thanks for all the info fellas!
Total posts: 8382
Last post: Jan 13, 2022 Member since:Feb 7, 2006
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
|
Sorry i missed your post but glad you found everything you need you will be pleased with the later set up it makes life easier.
There is no by pass hose on A+ 1275 engines.
There is no by pass hose on A+ 1275 engines.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
Total posts: 219
Last post: Apr 7, 2022 Member since:Aug 16, 2015
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
going with the mkiii type rad. parts should be here in a few days. was able to pick up a one piece cowl with all the mounting brackets cheap on ebay It should make life simpler.
waiting on the new brake new pipe. they don't seem to have any in town, Austin Texas, with the british fittings? The ones hanging at autozone are slightly different it seems.
Then off to the body shop. I hear those guys can do miracles. Got a decent bash on the rear end. Might need a new boot lid if anyones got one laying around, although the body man said he could probably straighten it out.
thanks for all the help fellas.
waiting on the new brake new pipe. they don't seem to have any in town, Austin Texas, with the british fittings? The ones hanging at autozone are slightly different it seems.
Then off to the body shop. I hear those guys can do miracles. Got a decent bash on the rear end. Might need a new boot lid if anyones got one laying around, although the body man said he could probably straighten it out.
thanks for all the help fellas.
Total posts: 7048
Last post: Jan 29, 2024 Member since:May 23, 2002
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
|
I just took a screen shot of my digital copy of a Haynes manual. Since the inner fender shroud/box has been removed I would do as Malcolm suggested and go with the one piece later style radiator shroud. Here's the photo of what it looks like and the parts you'll need.#10 one piece shroud, #20 lower mounting bracket, #14 lower radiator hose, #26 upper radiator hose for 1275, the upper mounting bracket (no number shown) that goes from the thermostat housing to the radiator for 1275, plus all the bolts to mount these items. You could "Jerry-rig" the mounting brackets, but the last person who did that to your car caused ?much damage. If you're going to do the job you might as well do it right. Also, since you'll have it all apart I'd suggest changing the water pump, thermostat, and that pesky little hose that goes between the head and the water pump. If you'd ever replaced that hose on the side of the road when it failed you'd certainly understand. Good luck. BTW, do you have a Haynes manual or any repair manual? Well crap, seems my photo/screen shot is t[ big to drop here. Please email me and I will send you the photo. Cheers, Hugh [email protected]
"Retired: No Job, No Money, Wife and I! Will travel anywhere for Minis"
Total posts: 7048
Last post: Jan 29, 2024 Member since:May 23, 2002
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
|
What part of Texas are you in? There may be someone close by that has the stuff you need and could help put it back together. Mini guys are helpful like that.
"Retired: No Job, No Money, Wife and I! Will travel anywhere for Minis"
Total posts: 219
Last post: Apr 7, 2022 Member since:Aug 16, 2015
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
Quote:
Originally Posted by malsal
Quote:
Originally Posted by Morninglightmountain
Quote:
Originally Posted by Minimike1
your brake line is supposed to be fastened to the front subframe with clips. Look in an owner's manual or parts manual. There's no way the rad can rub the brake line unless something isn't right. Even when you use an AA rad, it won't fit well. I imagine the bottom bracket was modded to make the rad fit. And I believe the outlet on the AA rad is in the wrong place (top hose). Get a mini rad, and mini lower bracket for your engine. Use a MK 1 , 2 piece shroud.
If your engine runs hot, make sure it's in tune first before dealing with cooling issues. Also when doing this rad job, a good time to put in a new thermostat and maybe flush the block.
If your engine runs hot, make sure it's in tune first before dealing with cooling issues. Also when doing this rad job, a good time to put in a new thermostat and maybe flush the block.
I've already fitted the cowl to the new radiator. the holes line up. i just have to rivet the shroud back together where it was cut.
The next problem- i think i can just extend the old AA bracket with a piece of sheet metal to make the bottom bracket.
the brake line rubbed to AA radiator because it's so much bigger. Until I realized it I wondered how in the world this brake line was supposed to fit.
This way with the plastic fan you can remove the radiator complete with the shroud in 10 minutes instead of busting your knuckles on that two piece MK I set up.
If you don't mind, can you let me know what parts I'll need to order for the conversion. I already have to radiator.
I just need to know which brackets and cowl to order. I will need top and bottom
thanks!
More info
1965 mini cooper mk1
1275cc AA engine
Total posts: 8382
Last post: Jan 13, 2022 Member since:Feb 7, 2006
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Morninglightmountain
Quote:
Originally Posted by Minimike1
your brake line is supposed to be fastened to the front subframe with clips. Look in an owner's manual or parts manual. There's no way the rad can rub the brake line unless something isn't right. Even when you use an AA rad, it won't fit well. I imagine the bottom bracket was modded to make the rad fit. And I believe the outlet on the AA rad is in the wrong place (top hose). Get a mini rad, and mini lower bracket for your engine. Use a MK 1 , 2 piece shroud.
If your engine runs hot, make sure it's in tune first before dealing with cooling issues. Also when doing this rad job, a good time to put in a new thermostat and maybe flush the block.
If your engine runs hot, make sure it's in tune first before dealing with cooling issues. Also when doing this rad job, a good time to put in a new thermostat and maybe flush the block.
I've already fitted the cowl to the new radiator. the holes line up. i just have to rivet the shroud back together where it was cut.
The next problem- i think i can just extend the old AA bracket with a piece of sheet metal to make the bottom bracket.
the brake line rubbed to AA radiator because it's so much bigger. Until I realized it I wondered how in the world this brake line was supposed to fit.
This way with the plastic fan you can remove the radiator complete with the shroud in 10 minutes instead of busting your knuckles on that two piece MK I set up.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
Total posts: 219
Last post: Apr 7, 2022 Member since:Aug 16, 2015
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
Quote:
Originally Posted by Minimike1
your brake line is supposed to be fastened to the front subframe with clips. Look in an owner's manual or parts manual. There's no way the rad can rub the brake line unless something isn't right. Even when you use an AA rad, it won't fit well. I imagine the bottom bracket was modded to make the rad fit. And I believe the outlet on the AA rad is in the wrong place (top hose). Get a mini rad, and mini lower bracket for your engine. Use a MK 1 , 2 piece shroud.
If your engine runs hot, make sure it's in tune first before dealing with cooling issues. Also when doing this rad job, a good time to put in a new thermostat and maybe flush the block.
If your engine runs hot, make sure it's in tune first before dealing with cooling issues. Also when doing this rad job, a good time to put in a new thermostat and maybe flush the block.
I've already fitted the cowl to the new radiator. the holes line up. i just have to rivet the shroud back together where it was cut.
The next problem- i think i can just extend the old AA bracket with a piece of sheet metal to make the bottom bracket.
the brake line rubbed to AA radiator because it's so much bigger. Until I realized it I wondered how in the world this brake line was supposed to fit.
Total posts: 6908
Last post: Dec 4, 2023 Member since:Feb 26, 1999
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
|
your brake line is supposed to be fastened to the front subframe with clips. Look in an owner's manual or parts manual. There's no way the rad can rub the brake line unless something isn't right. Even when you use an AA rad, it won't fit well. I imagine the bottom bracket was modded to make the rad fit. And I believe the outlet on the AA rad is in the wrong place (top hose). Get a mini rad, and mini lower bracket for your engine. Use a MK 1 , 2 piece shroud.
If your engine runs hot, make sure it's in tune first before dealing with cooling issues. Also when doing this rad job, a good time to put in a new thermostat and maybe flush the block.
If your engine runs hot, make sure it's in tune first before dealing with cooling issues. Also when doing this rad job, a good time to put in a new thermostat and maybe flush the block.
Total posts: 332
Last post: Mar 25, 2024 Member since:Jan 22, 2018
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
You should be able to get a Mini shroud and lower and upper brackets. The rad you bought might even fit the Mini shroud. You don't want to use the Austin America rad. Modern rads are much more efficient.
Total posts: 1649
Last post: Jun 22, 2022 Member since:Apr 30, 2009
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
|
Kindof , if it aint broke., dont fixit...
Mabye improve it and clean it up = but the AA rad is a touch larger for some more water capcity .. finding and sourcing original Mk1 items is doable but may be more troublesome.
An Upper thermostat housing will be needed
New upper rad hose new
more brackets and cowels.
might as well replace lower hoses too.
how about that water pump? refresh
Oh the can of worms!
Mabye improve it and clean it up = but the AA rad is a touch larger for some more water capcity .. finding and sourcing original Mk1 items is doable but may be more troublesome.
An Upper thermostat housing will be needed
New upper rad hose new
more brackets and cowels.
might as well replace lower hoses too.
how about that water pump? refresh
Oh the can of worms!
Total posts: 219
Last post: Apr 7, 2022 Member since:Aug 16, 2015
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
Total posts: 219
Last post: Apr 7, 2022 Member since:Aug 16, 2015
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kermy
The shroud (cowl) on the inner fender is not necessary.
I think I need to at least put a piece of sheet metal there for the rad to rest on/bolt to.
Total posts: 332
Last post: Mar 25, 2024 Member since:Jan 22, 2018
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
The shroud (cowl) on the inner fender is not necessary.
Total posts: 219
Last post: Apr 7, 2022 Member since:Aug 16, 2015
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
Quote:
Originally Posted by jedduh01
I Believe your removed radiator or Perhaps your whole car setup is from a Canadian SMOG Spec mini... (has a large air pump in the way) and they installed a different radiator for fitting the pump from the factory
They moved the outlet to the rear. attached Picture from the web of that setup.
You can find another Rad like that ( not easily found i dont think) convert your whole setup to a proper early MK 1 ( you will require new shrounds and mounts)
There is a chance that rad is from an Austin America used for this mini application ( I am not certain)
They moved the outlet to the rear. attached Picture from the web of that setup.
You can find another Rad like that ( not easily found i dont think) convert your whole setup to a proper early MK 1 ( you will require new shrounds and mounts)
There is a chance that rad is from an Austin America used for this mini application ( I am not certain)
cowl, but cut it up to fit the America rad. I think i can reuse it if I go original mini. The problem is they cut up the wing shroud so the bigger rad would fit. But I think I can bolt in some sheet metal to make it work again.
Thanks for the info
Total posts: 1649
Last post: Jun 22, 2022 Member since:Apr 30, 2009
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
|
I Believe your removed radiator or Perhaps your whole car setup is from a Canadian SMOG Spec mini... (has a large air pump in the way) and they installed a different radiator for fitting the pump from the factory
They moved the outlet to the rear. attached Picture from the web of that setup.
You can find another Rad like that ( not easily found i dont think) convert your whole setup to a proper early MK 1 ( you will require new shrounds and mounts)
There is a chance that rad is from an Austin America used for this mini application ( I am not certain)
They moved the outlet to the rear. attached Picture from the web of that setup.
You can find another Rad like that ( not easily found i dont think) convert your whole setup to a proper early MK 1 ( you will require new shrounds and mounts)
There is a chance that rad is from an Austin America used for this mini application ( I am not certain)
Total posts: 219
Last post: Apr 7, 2022 Member since:Aug 16, 2015
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
Disaster stuck when I finally lost brake pressure. I won't get into it because it's too depressing (body work will be needed).
But to the point. My brake pipe wore through by rubbing against the radiator.
After trying to fit a new brake pipe I found it impossible without taking the radiator out. When I went to fit the new radiator (i bought 3 years back) i found the new radiator to be physically smaller AND the top spout coming out the opposite side (which is all i can find for sale)
The old radiator/cowl seemed to be jankily put together.
I might start form scratch on the cowl. which cowl do I need for the new rad in a mk1?
Had anyone seen the older (behind) radiator? Should I order a new cowl and start over with my newer radiator?
1965 Mk1
But to the point. My brake pipe wore through by rubbing against the radiator.
After trying to fit a new brake pipe I found it impossible without taking the radiator out. When I went to fit the new radiator (i bought 3 years back) i found the new radiator to be physically smaller AND the top spout coming out the opposite side (which is all i can find for sale)
The old radiator/cowl seemed to be jankily put together.
I might start form scratch on the cowl. which cowl do I need for the new rad in a mk1?
Had anyone seen the older (behind) radiator? Should I order a new cowl and start over with my newer radiator?
1965 Mk1