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 cylinder head torque.

 Created by: croc7
Orig. Posting Date User Name Edit Date
Jun 30, 2020 03:45PM croc7  
Jun 30, 2020 12:45PM Spank Edited: Jun 30, 2020 12:47PM 
Jun 30, 2020 11:12AM croc7 Edited: Jun 30, 2020 11:14AM 
Jun 30, 2020 10:36AM Rosebud  
Jun 30, 2020 09:43AM 66coop  
Jun 24, 2020 05:53AM Alex  
Jun 23, 2020 07:03PM croc7  
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 Posted: Jun 30, 2020 03:45PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spank
i have a whole routine that involves not shaving for a period of time, abstaining from sex, holding a specific sized wad of chew in my left cheek, and calculating barometric pressure within each cylinder prior to torquing the adjacent studs...

...once it is torqued at initial install, I like to warm the engine up by running it with absolutely no coolant in it for a few "moments" and then cutting the engine off to let the heat normalize and wait a while to attempt to evenly distribute itself. And then I go back and retorque to spec again. I always get more out of it even without needing to back off. My theory/philosophy is that the varnish/coating on the head gasket is softened by the heat and the retorque helps to squish it into Thomas' nooks and crannies and provide a better liquid seal. Then I let it cool completely prior to filling the whole thing with proper coolant. The arp studs can take a lot more torque than the block and head can take, and I figure the studs are asked to perform their job while they are up to temperature anyway, so torquing them while warm seems to make more sense to me and to balance pressure from the shorter front ones vs the longer rear ones than just torquing them up cold...


...And then, for my final round of nonsensical ritualistic behavior, I put on the same pair of socks that I was wearing when the head gasket originally blew/let go (or, if it didn't blow and I was just assembling a new build, I wear NO socks,) and then, after drinking precisely 4/5ths of a pint of Guinness, I urinate over the entire block to seal it up sorta like the christening of a great ship.
So thaaat's what I was doing wrong.  Going to the store right now to pick up some Guinness.

 

"To catch one, you need one"....John Cooper

 Posted: Jun 30, 2020 12:45PM
 Edited:  Jun 30, 2020 12:47PM
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i have a whole routine that involves not shaving for a period of time, abstaining from sex, holding a specific sized wad of chew in my left cheek, and calculating barometric pressure within each cylinder prior to torquing the adjacent studs...

...once it is torqued at initial install, I like to warm the engine up by running it with absolutely no coolant in it for a few "moments" and then cutting the engine off to let the heat normalize and wait a while to attempt to evenly distribute itself. And then I go back and retorque to spec again. I always get more out of it even without needing to back off. My theory/philosophy is that the varnish/coating on the head gasket is softened by the heat and the retorque helps to squish it into Thomas' nooks and crannies and provide a better liquid seal. Then I let it cool completely prior to filling the whole thing with proper coolant. The arp studs can take a lot more torque than the block and head can take, and I figure the studs are asked to perform their job while they are up to temperature anyway, so torquing them while warm seems to make more sense to me and to balance pressure from the shorter front ones vs the longer rear ones than just torquing them up cold...


...And then, for my final round of nonsensical ritualistic behavior, I put on the same pair of socks that I was wearing when the head gasket originally blew/let go (or, if it didn't blow and I was just assembling a new build, I wear NO socks,) and then, after drinking precisely 4/5ths of a pint of Guinness, I urinate over the entire block to seal it up sorta like the christening of a great ship.

 Posted: Jun 30, 2020 11:12AM
 Edited:  Jun 30, 2020 11:14AM
Total posts: 780
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Member since:Aug 15, 2002
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Rather than back them off 1/2 turn, I decided to confirm the torque.  Some were snug and didn't move.  Others, maybe 1/8 turn.  Surprising..  These are ARP studs/nuts that have been used before and should have been stretched.  Used a torque wrench of known accuracy and current calibration.  But then I suppose there is +/- calibration accuracy to consider.

 

"To catch one, you need one"....John Cooper

 Posted: Jun 30, 2020 10:36AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by croc7
Does anyone else use a different method and if so, what? 
I check them again after the first 500 miles. But as Alex implied, sometimes it’s better to let a sleeping dog lie.

 

Michael, Santa Barbara, CA

. . . the sled, not the flower

      Poser MotorSports

 Posted: Jun 30, 2020 09:43AM
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If you are running ARP hardware, I would follow their specific instructions.

 Posted: Jun 24, 2020 05:53AM
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GB
Torque to 48lb-ft in the proper sequence.  Leave alone.

Worked for me for 25+ years.

 Posted: Jun 23, 2020 07:03PM
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When I install the cylinder head, I torque to the lubricated ARP studs/nuts 20 ft/lbs in the proper sequence, then to 45 ft/lbs.  Run to temp, let cool completely, then re-torque to 45 after backing off the nuts 1/2 turn. 
Does anyone else use a different method and if so, what? 

 

"To catch one, you need one"....John Cooper