Classic Mini Engine Parts
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 Posted: Jun 25, 2020 02:00PM
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It is the cable that goes between the cylinder 2 and 3. In front of the valve cover.

 Posted: Jun 25, 2020 03:08AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danillo

I’ll try to check.

I was just checking the electric part and found the ground cable of the valve cover welded. Any possibility is has anything to do if the electric failure? Mechanic checked everything and everything was plugged in.

I am not sure what the ground cable of the valve cover might be...

 Posted: Jun 24, 2020 10:43AM
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I’ll try to check.

I was just checking the electric part and found the ground cable of the valve cover welded. Any possibility is has anything to do if the electric failure? Mechanic checked everything and everything was plugged in.

 Posted: Jun 24, 2020 10:10AM
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Mechanical noise from the turbo can indicate a worn bearing allowing the impeller to hit the turbo case...  You can remove the inlet to the turbo and use your finger to move the impeller - if it has any side-to-side movement, this indicates the bearing is shot and is a prelude to a catastrophic turbo failure if not resolved.

 Posted: Jun 24, 2020 09:59AM
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Thank you for replying. I’ll get them to check every electric part before spending on a new ECU.
about the air leak, my turbo doesn’t make the usual sound, it makes more of a snap/something metallic hitting other than the usual air hissing. Can that be related? If so, what could that be? I’m starting to get desperate at this point, as I have replaced o2 sensors, valve cover(which I’ll only find out once I’m able to start the car), candles, ignition coils, tested MAF and MAP, but I never thought the turbo noise could be the reason for the air leak.
The car shows system too idle, and whenever stopped but on, the RPM is very unstable. If I hit the gas pedal, the car feels weak, and after the RPM come back to a little lower than 1K, the car will go up a little bit to around 1.2K by itself. It feels like it’s accelerating alone.

 Posted: Jun 24, 2020 08:42AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danillo
Hello guys,
I was getting code P1497. Replaced o2 sensor, candles, ignition coils, everything, then a mechanic advised me to replace the valve cover. The valve cover was unoriginal, and he told me that the fake ones cause the car to have air leak and this code, so I bought an original one.
another mechanic went to install it for me and left some cable unplugged, so when trying to start the car, there was a pop and the car won’t turn on. I’m getting codes U114B, U115B and U115E. The same mechanic told me it was the relay, bought a new one and replaced and nothing happened. I heard it might be the ECU, but I want to check every other possibility before spending the money in a new one and reprogramming. Any thoughts?
thanks guys.
P1497 - Downstream Throttle Air Leak

U114B - Lost communication with Engine Control Torque 1

U115B - Lost communication with Engine Control Torque 3
U115E - Lost communication with Engine Data

How was the car running when this all started with the P1497 error?

If the mechanic left a connector off, I would take the car back to them and have them fix it so the car is running again... at least back to the point where it was when you bought it to him.

If you are getting error codes, the ECU is obviously getting power and is somewhat alive. Is it possible a connector to the ECU was knocked loose or was not fully seated when it was at the mechanic? I would exhaust all other options before replacing the ECU since it isn't a guarantee to fix the problems...

 Posted: Jun 23, 2020 05:16PM
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Hello guys,
I was getting code P1497. Replaced o2 sensor, candles, ignition coils, everything, then a mechanic advised me to replace the valve cover. The valve cover was unoriginal, and he told me that the fake ones cause the car to have air leak and this code, so I bought an original one.
another mechanic went to install it for me and left some cable unplugged, so when trying to start the car, there was a pop and the car won’t turn on. I’m getting codes U114B, U115B and U115E. The same mechanic told me it was the relay, bought a new one and replaced and nothing happened. I heard it might be the ECU, but I want to check every other possibility before spending the money in a new one and reprogramming. Any thoughts?
thanks guys.