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 Posted: Aug 4, 2020 08:18AM
 Edited:  Aug 5, 2020 07:41AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thai168
Hi all, It seem like a good day to drive, I've finshed changing the radiator, timing cover with a breather for an A- 1275 67' Cooper S and took for a test drive three week ago and ran better and cooler which is great so today I try appvalley to start it up, It just wouldn't fire up, it had spark so I change new plug BPR6ES and set it to .032, .32, .50, so when I turn over with the choke, it sound like BURR BURR BURR . What am I doing wrong here or need to do? I hope someone can solve this, much thank.
I have the same problem...

 Posted: Jul 1, 2020 07:14PM
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No, I have a catch can for the breathers, I was thinking back and I may have turn the rotor a little, don't know why?. No, is about 2mm from the fan and the breather, I cut the breather 1/4 and removed the metal screen. I saw it on YouTube MED Engineering talking about breather. I'll see if I can tape a video and post for you guys see what's need to done.

 Posted: Jul 1, 2020 11:35AM
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CA
Alex's comment about the new timing chain cover breather made me wonder if you had connected it to the carbs in any way. It may not be an issue but possibly if you have it connected to a port on the intake manifold, it may be allowing too much air, resulting in a very lean mixture.

As tsumini suggests, the timing may have slipped. Possible if the rotor was hitting the distributor cap posts - it may have hammered the position of the distributor, retarding the timing.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Jul 1, 2020 08:48AM
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US
Nobody suggested checking timing. That is crucial proper running.

 Posted: Jul 1, 2020 06:50AM
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CA
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rosebud
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thai168
…I know that explaining the detail very bad.
No, my friend. You're doing fine.
I agree. You are dong very well.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Jun 30, 2020 09:16PM
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GB
Check the fan isn't hitting the breather on your new timing cover.

 Posted: Jun 30, 2020 03:37PM
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US
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thai168
…I know that explaining the detail very bad.
No, my friend. You're doing fine.

 

Michael, Santa Barbara, CA

. . . the sled, not the flower

      Poser MotorSports

 Posted: Jun 30, 2020 02:40PM
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I do owned an manual and researchers before I start, so when it doesn't come out right, I come here as the last option. I know that explaining the detail very bad.

 Posted: Jun 30, 2020 10:11AM
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US
Per the advice above, if you don't have a service manual or SU manual, you need to get one.  Read it thoroughly so you understand what you are doing BEFORE you start turning things.

Until you get a manual on SUs use the information in the PDF document linked below.
https://tecb.eu/onewebmedia/Tuning_SU_Carbs.pdf

Doug L.
 Posted: Jun 30, 2020 09:00AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thai168
I kept it running for two minute and still can't release the choke without it dying.
The fact that it will only run with the choke pulled all the way out is an (almost) sure sign that your carbs are set way too lean. Read the manual on how to adjust the carbs. Or, begin by turning the mixture nut underneath each carb clockwise one flat at a time, starting the engine after each adjustment until it runs reasonably well without the choke being pulled out. Once it's able to run without the choke, you should consider synchronizing the carbs, again checking the manual. Good luck!

 

Michael, Santa Barbara, CA

. . . the sled, not the flower

      Poser MotorSports

 Posted: Jun 30, 2020 06:31AM
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The first tried, I set all four spark plugs at .032" and the second times, I set them at .025". I got the .025" from the manual. I had no problem with the start up, but just to keep it running, I had to pull the choke out almost to the max.. I kept it running for two minute and still can't release the choke without it dying.

 Posted: Jun 30, 2020 02:48AM
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CA
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thai168
Hi, sorry for the delay in mine update due to many brain fart. I have replaced the distributor cap, rotor, coil, spark plugs and wires. I set them at .032, and .025 and run with the choke fully out for 2 min. and that's not normal. I don't have any idea what else to do, I hope you guys do. I really appreciate you guys taking the time to researching and advice. Thank again, Thai
You have not explained what the two numbers you give mean. Spark plugs only have one gap to set and that is .032 and all spark plugs get the same gap.

What does the .025 number represent? What are you setting with that number?

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Jun 29, 2020 05:31PM
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Hi, sorry for the delay in mine update due to many brain fart. I have replaced the distributor cap, rotor, coil, spark plugs and wires. I set them at .032, and .025 and run with the choke fully out for 2 min. and that's not normal. I don't have any idea what else to do, I hope you guys do. I really appreciate you guys taking the time to researching and advice.

Thank again, Thai

 Posted: Jun 22, 2020 07:20PM
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US
Set the plugs to 0.032"

I had to copy and enlarge your distributor cap picture to see the broken part you are talking about.  Get a new cap with matching rotor.  Do not re-use either part.  Make sure you buy the right cap and rotor for your car.  Your '67 would have been built with a 25D or 23D Lucas distributor.  However, it could have been swapped out for a 45D distributor.  Google for pictures of each and make sure you get the right cap and rotor for what you have.

You said you put in new plugs and the distributor cap looks brand new.  Did you perhaps put the distributor cap on 180 degrees out?  There is a key on the cap that is supposed to prevent the cap from being installed 180 degrees out.  If you try to put the cap on without the key lining up the cap will not sit flat and the rotor can cause the damage shown in your picture.  Also, did you remove the spark plug wires one at a time and replace them in the correct firing order?

As was mentioned above by others, the terminology you use describing the problem is important.  When you say an engine is not turning over, that suggests to those of us trying to help that the starter is not spinning the engine.  You mentioned a burrrr, burrrr, burrr sound when cranking the engine with the starter.  That can be from a stuck Bendix unit on the starter motor OR a weak battery.  Start with the cheap tests.  Put the battery on a low Amp charger over night and see how it sounds the next day.   


Doug L.
 Posted: Jun 22, 2020 04:20PM
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Hi Doug,

Thank you for replying, I test driving three weeks ago after replacing a new radiator and a timing cover with a breather and it ran fine, but a few days ago, it just wouldn't turn over and I flooded it. So I replaced new plugs and set them at .032, .050 like some said on the tube and it did turn over but a rough idle so I flushed out exc. fuel and set them at .025 and still having the same problem. I check the distributor rotor which was dirty so it clean, check the plug wires and has good continuity. looking closely at the distributor cap, their a piece broken on all 4 contact, can you see it?.

Anyway, Thank you for taking the time, Thai

 Posted: Jun 22, 2020 10:21AM
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US
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thai168
...I got a new set of plugs and set them at .032, .050 and today I set them at .025 and it did turn over like yesterday but has a rough ....
What do you mean you set the plugs "at .032, .050"?  With your electronic ignition set the gap on all 4 plugs to 0.032" [0.8mm]

The ignition system you have is the Crane/Alison optical type with remote amplifier.  It is not a stock Mini ignition.  The basic system has been on the market for perhaps 30 years.  I cannot help you troubleshoot it but I will post some document links below that may help.

Instructions:
https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/xr700%20instructions.pdf

Troubleshooting Threads:
//www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?73767-Crane-XR700-Installation-Problem
https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/26438-coil-wiring-and-crane-xr700-troubleshooting/

The Crane system is a good ignition system when set up properly.  However, you will notice there are a lot of threads out there that discuss troubleshooting and problems with it.

Doug L.
 Posted: Jun 22, 2020 03:35AM
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CA
Thai,
Your distributor cap looks fine to me. The four posts inside are supposed to look like that. The inner sides facing the middle contact are machined to an exact radius so that the rotor just misses them as it turns. The rotor does not quite touch but is close enough for the spark to jump.

You apparently have an electronic ignition system - I am not familiar with that one, so cannot comment on it. All I can suggest is to check all the connections and wires. Hopefully someone who knows about that system can advise.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Jun 21, 2020 11:45PM
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Image Gallery
Hello Dan,

Thank you for replaying with such good detail, sorry I can't do the same. So I will try again. I have a standard 1275 A- with twin SU 1.5. I finished installing a new radiator and changing a timing cover with a breather. I took it for a test drive which went great. Three week later, I think is a good day to drive but it just wouldn't turn over, so like you said I flooded the engine, so yesterday I got a new set of plugs and set them at .032, .050 and today I set them at .025 and it did turn over like yesterday but has a rough sound that's before I did what you said which I removed the plug and with a heavy foot I turn the key for 15 second. I check the wires, distributor without a vacuum and the rotor but the cap has a little piece broken off on each four corner, I doesn't look new. I'm going to order a new one but can you see the pics. and recommend if I should replace a new distributor and what kind, with or without a vacuum?. The last pic. is what come with the car 5 yrs. ago.

Thank you very much for your time, Thai

 Posted: Jun 21, 2020 02:01PM
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+1to Dans suggestions, would be nice to hear back but there is a bunch of time zone differences 

 Posted: Jun 21, 2020 12:38PM
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BURR BURR BURR sounds like the starter is spinning but not catching.

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