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 Posted: Jul 18, 2020 05:39AM
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I have a 2009 R56 non-turbo 6-spd manual trans.  I get something similar.  It starts out fine, drives.  once in a while, I get to a stop and if I forget to feather the throttle just before taking off, it will sputter and acts like a carburetor with a flat spot.  Then its all you can do to get it up to speed.  It clears out after a few minutes, but basically is temperamental until it has been shut off when I get to where I am going.  But sometimes after the episode, I can drive after it was parked, the same day, and when I get to a stop its acting like a hard miss.  But tap on the gas and feather it, voila and its fine again.  I understand why many people get frustrated with these cars.  They are sooo temperamental!

 Posted: Jul 8, 2020 07:05AM
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Have you considered your fuel injectors? My 2013 started to experience a very rough idle, tripped my engine lights, reduced power. Changed them out, prob resolved. Good luck.

 Posted: May 12, 2020 04:00AM
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Let us know if the pcv hose fixes the idle...

 Posted: May 11, 2020 06:08PM
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New thermostat has been put in. Still runs the same, although it has less hiccups. Finally noticed that the PCV hose was snapped in half - have a new one on its way. 

The only engine code I’m getting now is: P0118 - Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input. Now I’m at a complete loss. Unless the PCV hose solves that problem..

 Posted: May 7, 2020 03:21AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaleCooper
https://www.dropbox.com/s/7nep7f44cnqnmf9/IMG_9565.mov?dl=0

Kind of difficult to hear the "chugging" of the engine, but this is what its sounding like.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/jorpe4pg9ckhh24/IMG_9573.jpeg?dl=0

Here is that goofy fuel indicator light. I assumed it was due to the pump in the tank, so that was replaced, but it didn't change anything. Its showing 216 miles left on the tank, so I'm not low on fuel at all.

The first video sure sounds like the dreaded 'cold start rattle'... but your original post indicates you already replace the timing components....

The second fuel tank image - it looks like it may be one of the computer displays. Try pressing the button on the end of the turn signal stalk to see if it changes.

 Posted: May 6, 2020 12:27PM
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https://www.dropbox.com/s/7nep7f44cnqnmf9/IMG_9565.mov?dl=0

Kind of difficult to hear the "chugging" of the engine, but this is what its sounding like.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/jorpe4pg9ckhh24/IMG_9573.jpeg?dl=0

Here is that goofy fuel indicator light. I assumed it was due to the pump in the tank, so that was replaced, but it didn't change anything. Its showing 216 miles left on the tank, so I'm not low on fuel at all.

 Posted: May 6, 2020 10:45AM
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I ended up ordering a new thermostat last night, so I’ll be replacing that soon. I have monitored engine temp while driving, and it tends to hover around a constant 200 (+/- a few degrees here and there).

Could the injectors cause problems without throwing codes at all? That’s my next check while waiting for the thermostat to arrive.

 Posted: May 6, 2020 07:39AM
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P0118 - Engine coolant temperature sensor 1 circuit hight
P0599 - Thermostat heater control circuit high

Between the error codes and the fan running long, I might suspect the thermostat, which I did not see on the list of items you replaced.

An erroneous temp reading may cause the air fuel mix to run too rich causing rough idle.

If you list the last 7-digits of the vin number, I can point you to the correct thermostat for your MINI.

Not sure what the right arrow / gas symbol might indicate...

FYI, the gas tank has a right and left compartment connected in the middle.

 Posted: May 6, 2020 03:19AM
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It’s the hardtop Gen2. 

 Posted: May 6, 2020 03:16AM
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Is your '08 MINI Cooper S a convertible (gen1) or a hardtop (gen2)?

 Posted: May 5, 2020 03:17PM
 Edited:  May 5, 2020 03:19PM
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Howdy!

I’m starting to pull my hair out with this issue I’m having with my ‘08 Mini Cooper S. Currently has 64K miles on it, which makes things even more frustrating.

Last year I suddenly had the “death rattle” which blew the timing chain resulting in a rebuild of the head. That turned into a four month nightmare with the mechanics. Car drove great for about 6 months, then new issues came up.

I’m getting a constant rough idle. Things smooth out around 2K rpm, but then idles rough when you let off the gas. When trying to drive, it just limps along.

The only engine codes I’m getting is are intermittent P0599 and P0118, but they go eventually away.

So far I’ve replaced the following:

  • - Lower fuel pump (in tank)
  • - HPFP
  • - O2 sensor
  • - MAF sensor
  • - Camshaft position sensor
  • - Spark plugs
  • - Coils
  • - Battery**

** the fan would run for quite a while after the car was shut off, which eventually killed the battery (probably needed replacing anyway before all of this)

Right now, the car hasn’t been driven since the middle of March. It’s just been started and running while trying to diagnose what is going on.

Oil has always been changed between 3,000-5,000 miles. Compression appears to be good, no oil or gas leaks anywhere, and again, no engine codes. The only odd warning light I’m getting is on the tachometer - left side of the screen. It’s an arrow point to the right with the gas symbol, and it’s never gone away. Everyone says it’s your reserve fuel warning light, and pointing to which side your tank is on, but my tank is on the left (driver side), not the right like the arrow is indicating. I do have 3/4 of a tank of gas in the car now, so the reason why that is lit is beyond me.

Any suggestions or thoughts would be greatly appreciated before I go bald.